Clothing fabric is the material used to make clothing. As one of the three elements of clothing, fabric can not only interpret the style and characteristics of clothing, but also directly affect the performance effect of color and shape of clothing.
In the big world of clothing, clothing fabrics are varied with each passing day. But in general, high-quality, high-grade fabrics, most of them have the characteristics of wearing comfort, sweat absorption and breathable, drapiness, noble vision, soft touch and so on. Clothes made for formal social occasions should be made of pure cotton, pure wool, pure silk or pure linen. Most of the clothes made of these four natural fabrics are of higher grade. Sometimes it is permissible to wear clothes made of pure leather. The modeling characteristics of different materials and their application in fashion design are briefly introduced as follows.
1. Soft fabrics
Soft fabric is generally light and light, good draping, smooth modeling lines, clothing contour stretch naturally. Soft fabrics mainly include fabric structure evacuation knitted fabrics and silk fabrics and soft thin hessian fabric. Soft knitted fabrics are often linear and concise in fashion design to reflect the beautiful curves of the human body; Silk, hemp yarn and other fabrics are more loose and pleated shape, showing the flow of fabric lines.
2. Cool fabric
Crisp fabric lines are clear and have a sense of volume, which can form a plump clothing outline. Common cotton, polyester, corduroy, linen and a variety of medium and thick wool and chemical fiber fabrics, such fabrics can be used to highlight the accuracy of clothing design, such as suit, suit design.
3. Glossy fabric
Glossy fabric surface smooth and can reflect the light, a sense of shining. This type of fabric includes fabrics of satin texture. It is most commonly used in evening dresses or stage costumes to produce a strong visual effect of flamboyance. Glossy fabric in the performance of the dress modeling freedom is very wide, can have simple design or more exaggerated modeling way.
4. Heavy fabric
Heavy heavy fabric thick and sharp, can produce a stable styling effect, including a variety of heavy wool and quilted fabrics. Its fabric has A sense of physical expansion, not too much use of pleats and accumulation, the design of A and H shape is the most appropriate.
5. Transparent fabric
Transparent fabric texture is light and transparent, with elegant and mysterious artistic effect. Including cotton, silk, chemical fiber fabrics, such as georgette, satin strip silk, chemical fiber lace, etc. In order to express the transparency of the fabric, the usual lines are natural and full, rich in changes of the H and round table design modeling.
Section 1 Characteristics of clothing fabric
Below, the characteristics of the common clothing fabrics are briefly introduced.
1. Cotton cloth
Is the general name of all kinds of cotton textiles. It is used to make fashion, casual wear, underwear and shirts. Its advantages are easy and warm, soft and close, moisture absorption, air permeability is very good. Its disadvantages are easy to shrink, easy to wrinkle, appearance is not neat and beautiful, when wearing must be ironed often.
2. Linen
It is a kind of cloth made of hemp plant fibers such as hemp, flax, ramie, jute, sisal and canna. It is generally used to make casual clothes, work clothes, but also to make ordinary summer clothes. Its advantages are very high strength, moisture absorption, heat conduction, very good permeability. Its disadvantage is not very comfortable to wear, the appearance is more rough, blunt.
3. Silk
It is a general term for all kinds of silk fabrics woven from silk as raw materials. Like cotton, it comes in many varieties with different personalities. It can be used to make all kinds of clothing, especially suitable for women's clothing. Its advantages are light, fit, soft, smooth, breathable, colorful, glossy, noble and elegant, comfortable to wear. Its deficiency is easy to wrinkle, easy to suck, not strong enough, fading fast.
4. Woolen cloth
Also called wool, it is the use of all kinds of wool, cashmere woven into the fabric of the general name. It is usually suitable for the production of formal dresses, suits, coats and other formal, high-grade clothing. Its advantages are wrinkle - proof wear - resistant, soft feel, elegant and crisp, elastic, strong warmth. Its main disadvantage is that washing is more difficult, not suitable for the production of summer clothes.
5. Leather
It's a tanned animal fur fabric. It is used to make fashion, winter clothes. And can be divided into two categories: one is leather, that is, after hair treatment of leather. The second is fur, which is treated leather with leather fur. Its advantages are light and warm, graceful and luxurious. Its disadvantage is expensive, storage, nursing requirements are high, so it is not popular.
6. Chemical fiber
It's short for chemical fiber. It is the use of polymer compounds as raw materials made of fiber textiles. It is usually divided into artificial fiber and synthetic fiber two categories. Their common advantages are bright color, soft texture, drape, smooth and comfortable. Their disadvantages are poor wear resistance, heat resistance, moisture absorption, air permeability, heat deformation, easy to produce static electricity. Although it can be used to make all kinds of clothing, but the overall grade is not high, difficult to ascend the grand hall.
7. Blend
Is the natural fiber and chemical fiber according to a certain proportion, mixed textile fabric, can be used to make a variety of clothing. Its advantage is that it absorbs the advantages of cotton, hemp, silk, wool and chemical fiber while avoiding their disadvantages as much as possible. Moreover, it is relatively cheap in value, so it is very popular.
8. Pure cotton
Pure cotton fabric is a kind of textile made by weaving warp and weft yarns. At present, according to the actual processed cotton sources, it is divided into primary cotton fabric and recycled cotton fabric.
Pure cotton fabric is divided into:
① Natural white cloth: ordinary cloth, muslin, coarse cloth, canvas, grey twill cloth, original color cloth.
② Color cloth: vulcanized blue cloth, vulcanized ink cloth, shilin blue cloth, Shilin gray cloth, color poplin, all colors of khaki, colorful Chinese cloth.
③ Floral cloth: printed and printed cloth of various colors and patterns. Such as: plain print cloth, printed twill cloth, printed serge, printed tribute.
(4) yarn-dyed fabric: it is the yarn or line after dyeing, woven in the machine into cloth such as striped cloth, sheet cloth, flannelette, thread cloth, decorative cloth, etc.
Features of pure cotton fabric:
① hygroscopic: cotton fiber has good hygroscopic property, under normal circumstances, fiber can absorb water to the surrounding atmosphere, its moisture content is 8-10%, so it contacts the skin, people feel soft and not stiff. If the humidity of cotton cloth increases and the surrounding temperature is higher, all the water contained in the fiber will evaporate and disperse, making the fabric maintain a state of water balance, making people feel comfortable.
(2) Moisture: because cotton fiber is a bad conductor of heat and electricity, the heat conduction coefficient is very low, and because cotton fiber itself has the advantages of porosity, high elasticity, between the fibers can accumulate a lot of air, air is a bad conductor of heat and electricity, so cotton fiber textiles have good moisture, wearing cotton fabric clothes make people feel warm.
③ Heat resistance: cotton fabrics have good heat resistance, at 110℃ below, will only cause moisture evaporation on the fabric, will not damage the fiber, so cotton fabrics at room temperature, wear, washing dyeing and dyeing have no effect on the fabric, thus improving the pure cotton fabric washable wear performance.
(4) Alkali resistance: cotton fiber resistance to alkali is large, cotton fiber in alkali solution, fiber does not destroy phenomenon, the performance is conducive to the washing of pollution after taking, disinfection and removal of impurities, but also can be dyed cotton textiles, printing and various processes, in order to produce more new varieties of cotton weaving.
⑤ Health: cotton fiber is a natural fiber, its main component is cellulose, and a small amount of waxy substances and nitrogen and fruit gum. Pure cotton fabric through various inspection and practice, fabric and skin contact without any irritation, no negative effect, long-term wear is beneficial to human health and harmless, good health performance.
Cotton clothes also have many disadvantages. It is easy to wrinkle, and it is difficult to smooth out when wrinkled. 2. Easy to shrink, the shrinkage rate of pure cotton clothing is 2% to 5%, after special processing, or wash water treatment exception. 3. Easy deformation, cotton clothing will be easy to deformation, especially summer clothes, because the fabric is thin.
9. LYCRA fabric
Lycra is just a trade name for Invista, a former DuPont subsidiary acquired by Koch Industries for $4.4 billion in 2004, and has become synonymous with almost all types of spandex because of the company's market dominance. It completely replaces the traditional elastic elastic string, in gymnastics clothing, swimming suits and other special requirements of clothing, lycra is almost essential component. It allows you to show your curves and the gel to stretch freely without pressure. Lycra is not only used in everyday clothing, it is also a pet for fashion designers to create popular kaleidoscopes. Lycra was thus known by delighted people as the magic Fiber, named after the Sphinx of Egypt, which added to its mystique.
Many of our designer friends like to say, when talking about their recent work, that they used a little lycra. Perhaps not only is Lycra chic, but the word itself has a strong sense of chic.
Lycra is a new fiber launched by DuPont Company in the United States. At present, as long as the clothing using Lycra will be hung with a triangle tag, which has become a symbol of high quality. So what are the advantages of Lycra? According to DuPont's quality notes, Lycra differs from traditional elastic fibers in that it can stretch up to 500 percent and return to its original form. This means that the fibers can be stretched very easily, but then they cling to the surface of the body with very little force. Lycra fiber can be used with any fabric, including wool, linen, silk and cotton, to increase the fabric intimate, elastic and loose natural characteristics, feel flexible when moving. And unlike most spandex, Lycra has a special chemical structure that prevents mildew from growing when it's wet in a heat-humid sealed space.
Therefore, Lycra is called "friendly" fiber, not only because it blends thoroughly with natural and man-made fibers, but also to increase the comfort, binding, movement and longevity of the fabric or garment.
LYCRA can be freely stretched 4 to 7 times, and after the release of external force, quickly return to the original length. It cannot be used alone and can be interwoven with any other man-made or natural fiber. It does not change the appearance of the fabric, is an invisible fiber, can greatly improve the performance of the fabric. Lycra has outstanding stretch. For knitwear, its multi-direction extension is determined by the fabric itself, and Lycra brings only stretch and recovery of elasticity. Machine-made fabrics are malleable only in the direction woven into lycra, such as warp knitting (straight) or weft knitting (straight). Trousers benefit from the elasticity of the warp direction, and the bidirectional elastic woven fabric with Lycra provides great comfort and freedom of movement in both directions. Therefore, by adding lycra to women's garments such as trousers and coats, the folds can be easily and automatically recovered, and the clothes are more ladle and easy to be deformed, flexible and free to feel the new body. Both the production of rigorous suit, coat, and so on, also without the slightest sense of urgency and cramped, undershirt, underwear, sweatpants and other knitwear with a little lycra, both fit and comfortable, wear on the body stretch freely, can move.
Lycra is versatile and can add extra comfort to all types of ready-to-wear, including underwear, tailored outerwear, suits, skirts, trousers, knitwear, etc. It greatly improves the feel, drape and crease recovery ability of the fabric, improves the comfort and fit of all kinds of clothes, so that all kinds of clothes show new vitality, especially the Dupont company and the International wool Board jointly developed Lycra plus wool blend material. For the end of the 20th century and the 21st century textile industry provides a new concept.
10. Blending
Blended chemical fiber fabric is a textile product made by mixing chemical fiber with other natural fibers such as cotton wool, silk, hemp and so on. For example: terylene cotton, polyester wool gabardine, etc.
For example, polyester/cotton blend is a textile made of 65%-67% polyester and 33%-35% cotton mixed yarn. Polyester is commonly known as cotton. Features: It not only highlights the style of polyester but also has the advantages of cotton fabric. It has good elasticity and wear resistance under dry and wet conditions. It has stable size and small shrinkage rate, and it has the characteristics of tall and straight, not easy to wrinkle, easy to wash and fast drying.
11. Oxford Spinning
The utility model relates to a shirt fabric, which is soft to the touch and has a flat or square texture.
In the 1900s, a small group of maverick students at Oxford University used combed cotton fabric for design and processing in order to counter the flashy and luxurious fashion at that time. The fabric presented a two-color effect, with a harmonious color, quiet, good air permeability, comfortable and natural. Driven by this, the fabric became the special use of Oxford University uniform, and then popular in Europe and the United States for one hundred years, known as Oxford textile.
Oxford cloth, also known as Oxford spinning, is used to mix polyester/cotton yarn with cotton yarn, and adopts the weft weight flat or square flat structure. It is easy to wash and dry, soft to the hand, good moisture absorption and comfortable to wear. It looks like dyed fabric.
It was named after the cotton fabric that was first used in uniform shirts at Oxford University.
Attached: The main varieties of Oxford cloth
1: Set Oxford cloth, specially used for making all kinds of luggage.
2: nylon Oxford cloth, mainly the production of flood and rain supplies
3: Full Oxford cloth, mainly making bags
4: Tig Oxford cloth, mainly make all kinds of luggage
5: weft Oxford cloth, mainly make all kinds of luggage
Oxford spinning is a kind of fabric weaving, refers to the weaving of vertical and horizontal cotton yarn overlapping order, Oxford spinning fabric actually belongs to the shirt fabric in the middle and low order.
At present Oxford fabrics are pure cotton, some polyester cotton blend.
12. Linen
gunny (cloth); linen; grass cloth
It is a kind of cloth made of flax, ramie, jute, sisal, canna hemp and other hemp plant fibers. It is generally used to make casual clothes, work clothes, but also to make ordinary summer clothes. Its advantages are very high strength, moisture absorption, heat conduction, very good permeability. Its disadvantage is not very comfortable to wear, the appearance is more rough, blunt.
13. Knitted fabric
Knitted fabric, also known as sweatcloth, refers to the weft and flat knitted fabric used to make underwear. Square meter dry weight is generally 80-120g/cm, the cloth surface is smooth, clear texture, fine texture, smooth feel, longitudinal and horizontal have good extension, and horizontal than vertical extension. Hygroscopicity and air permeability is better, but there is dispersion and curling, sometimes will produce coil skew phenomenon. Common sweat cloth are bleached sweat cloth, extra white sweat cloth, fine bleached sweat cloth, burnt hair mercerized sweat cloth; According to the dyeing and finishing process of different plain sweatcloth, printed sweatcloth, navy stripe sweatcloth; According to the different raw materials used, blended sweatcloth, silk sweatcloth, acrylic sweatcloth, polyester sweatcloth, ramie sweatcloth, etc.
14. Polyester
Dacron is an important variety of synthetic fiber, is the trade name of polyester fiber. It is made of refined terephthalic acid (PTA) or dimethyl terephthalate (DMT) and ethylene glycol (EG) as raw materials by esterification or transesterification and polycondensation reaction and made of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fiber by spinning and post-processing.
This chapter mainly introduces the nature, characteristics and identification methods of these several categories of clothing fabrics.
The second section of clothing fabric composition identification
A simple way to identify the composition of clothing fabrics is combustion. The practice is to draw a thread of fabric containing warp and weft at the seam of the garment and light it with fire